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Marian Burros

Today's restaurant is theater on a grand scale.

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Fish sticks and beef stew that millions of children love to hate.

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It may not be possible to get rare roast beef but if you're willing to settle for well done, ask them to hold the sweetened library paste that passes for gravy.

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If Broadway shows charge preview prices while the cast is in dress rehearsal, why should restaurants charge full price when their dining room and kitchen staffs are still practicing?

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